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Archive for March, 2006

Latest installment

Click on the title for the latest installment in the Israel story.

See, I did get something accomplished today. I also went through the mail, watched tv, and ordered groceries online (free delivery!).

I still have to do laundry. Sigh.


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I’m sick!

Oh joy. I get to stay home today, sick. Sick! I’m not surprised. I felt it coming on, but all the traveling and sleepiness disguised the symptoms. Everyone I saw in Israel was sick–my nephew, his bride, several small children and Spesh. It’s not the end of the world. I don’t have a fever, but I am stumbling around the house slightly off balance. I have a sore throat, headache and runny

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Jetlag

I feel kind of dumb. Instead of telling you how I did my nails yesterday, I should have mentioned that I got home safe and sound. Then again, that was perfectly obvious.

I’m suffering quite a bit from jetlag and my thinking is foggy. When I have to talk to someone, my words come slowly. It’s rather unpleasant.

I’m also putting up all the Israel posts in a new more chronology-friendly blog.


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Nails

What did I do today?

My nails. No, really. When I was in Israel, I had a manicure–I wrote about it. That led to me not biting my nails for the entire time I was there. Ok, I bit one thumb nail, but nine out of ten ain’t bad. I’ve managed to not bite my nails before, but it’s been years since I’ve gone this long without a bite.

In case you didn’t figure it out yet, I bite my nails. It’s


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Ben-Gurion Airport

I’m on my way home today and it’s going to be a long one. The sweet part is that this airport, at least in Terminal 3, has WiFi. Lord love it. Now, if I were good and had been writing but not posting, I’d have something ready to go and pop it up for you. Instead, I’ve been in a writing free zone since Friday afternoon.

I know I’ve gotten the chronology of the story all mixed up and I have a


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Computer fiasco

The computer fiasco of March 2006 occurred on Tuesday. I was trying to sleep and Dad work me up. I’d snapped at him a couple of times already, mostly due to unconstrained grumpiness. I couldn’t get to the computer until late that day, so I wrote in a longhand instead.




Some of my Tuesday thoughts:




I guess I must fit in around here because everyone starts speaking to me in Hebrew. But why shouldn’t they? I would be more remarkable if they didn’t. What is remarkable is that when I answer in English, “sorry,” they repeat the question in English! “Where is number 1 Hanania Street?” “How much time can you put on this meter?” “Can I have your phone number?”




When I grumped out of the house on Tuesday, Dad asked, “Where are you going?”




I said, “For a walk.”




“We’re doing [this and that]. When will you be back?”




I said, “I don’t know.”




“Did your laundry dry yet?” I’d done a load the night before and hung things up on the drying rack provided in the unit. There is a washer but no dryer.




“No, not yet.”




“So, we’ll see you back here mid-afternoon?” Dad asked.




“Ok.”




I went and walked. I bought a frozen coffee drink–like a frapuccino, it cost about the same too.




The highlight of the day: a dude on a scooter tried to pick me up. He pulled on to the sidewalk (a shockingly unremarkable event here), and asked me something in Hebrew–presumably directions (it was the second time so far). I smiled and shrugged my shoulders. I said, in English, “I’m sorry.” I walked past him, but he started talking to me. I could have ignored him, but I engaged–not sure why. Maybe because he was cute. He said, in English, “You speak English?”




“Yes.”




“You’re a tourist.”




“I’m here for my nephew’s wedding. My brother lives here.”




“For how long?” He asked.




“More than 20 years.”




“You are from New York–your accent…”




“Yes–I live in Washington DC.” I said.




“But you are from New York?”




“I was born there.”




“Ok. I have more questions…” He smiled. So did I.




“You do?”




“Yes. I can have your telephone number?”




“I don’t know. I’m pretty busy.”




“But I can call.”




“They have plans–parties for me to go to every night.”




“But maybe one night, later this week–Thursday.”




“I don’t know.”




“You won’t even let me try?”




I smiled, laughed, shrugged.




He looked at me. I walked away. If I weren’t thousands of miles from home, I might have given him my number.




I got back from coffee, after talking to scooter dude, and Dad and Susan were gone–my computer locked in their place. I lay down and tried to rest. I watched some tv. When I decided to go out again, around 2:30 pm, I found a note and a cell phone outside my door. Dad and Susan were at B2’s house and would be there for a while. I needed to be ready to go to the party that night by 7:30pm. Fine. I went for a long walk.




I called Spesh on the cell phone and told him about my encounter. He said, “What kind of scooter? Don’t be so impressed.”




“It wasn’t a Vespa or anything. Just a scooter.”




Spesh said, “He tried pretty hard already. You didn’t need to let him try anymore.”

I said, “Yes, I give him credit for a good effort.”




I wandered around residential Jerusalem neighborhoods. I found a UN vehicle and loads of ferial cats–some where very cute. I am taking pictures of the Jerusalem cats.




On my walk, I wondered if I would get lost. I didn’t have a map. But, somehow, I kept my bearings and found my way home. When I told Dad he said, “I never had any doubt you would get home. You have such a good sense of direction.” I do, don’t I?




In the last post, I said I was grateful for time and stories. What I’m really grateful for is a place to put these stories. I’m grateful that I can share them with you–that I have a place to express myself. Thanks for reading.






Grateful for
: this space.



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The parties

Monday, I was exhausted and didn’t do much. I couldn’t sleep late and went out for a short walk and coffee with Dad. I can’t remember much more about what we did, but it certainly involved watching movies on tv.




That evening, we attended the first of several late dinner parties given in honor of the newlyweds. These parties are like work. The Hebrew name for them is “Shevas Bruchas” which, to my ear, translates as “Seven Blessings.” I might be right because there are seven blessings said for the couple as part of the wedding ceremony. (Please enlighten me in the comments.)




The dinners are held by friends of the family. The party on Monday night was held by a couple who are good friends of my brother’s and his wife’s. I actually met them both, and remembered them, from my first visit to Israel. They now have a married daughter (or two?) and a grandchild. They are about 40 years old. Yowsa. About 20-30 people attended this dinner.




The Tuesday night party was held by a daughter of the family Tikvah (my sister-in-law) lived with after her adoptive parents could no longer take care of her. It’s a large family and many of the siblings attended. There were about 40 people there.




On Wednesday night, the party was held by the women who work with Tikvah. About 30 people attended. Susan and I went, Dad skipped.




The party on Thursday night was held by the men in the “Kollel” (Talmudic graduate school–not exactly, that’s my description of it) that my brother runs with a partner. All of us Americans skipped.




The men and women sit in the same room but at separate tables. The men occasionally give speeches praising the groom and bride and including some kind of Talmudic or religious interpretation. Most of these speeches were in Hebrew, but I would sometimes get a translation. The men would also break into song or prayer and the woman would be hushed. Women were also hushed during the speeches. The men would always stand up and hold hands at some point and dance/walk around their table.




The women did not make speeches or sing. They are not allowed to sing in front of unrelated men. Men are not allowed to hear women sing.




The meals do not start until late–maybe 9pm or later–because the men have to go to evening prayers first.




When you arrive, the tables are set with plastic plates and plastic utensils, paper napkins and plastic cups and plastic tablecloths. It’s the way to do it if you are having 40 people to dinner. Usually, the hosting family does not do all the cooking. Family and friends bring some of the food.




The meals have a certain sameness to them. The table is set and a first course or communal salads are set out. Someone arrives with fresh rolls and people sit down and start to eat. There is a blessing, but it is not communal. Each person says a blessing over their roll in their own time and start eating any time they like after that. For those of us who don’t pray (me) we just watch and eat when we see others eating. After the salads, some kind of vegetable, stewed, is served. Then soup. Then a main course, chicken and chicken or pot roast and cold cuts–we’ve had all of these. More salads–tomato and cucumber, hummus, roasted vegetables, pickled cabbage, coleslaw, carrot salad–may be served, or are continually refreshed. After the meat course, there is a dessert. And, of course, bottles of water, regular soda, diet soda, soda water and fruit drink are placed on the tables. Plenty of food is available, but it is possible to limit oneself. I try most everything, but don’t have seconds of anything. I haven’t felt stuffed yet.




That accounts for all of my evenings except Thursday (tonight). Thursday, I did a lot of walking, had lunch with Dad and Susan, walked some more and came home, uploaded photos and wrote. Dad and Susan returned around 6pm and Susan apologized for being late–she’d said they’d be back around 5pm. I didn’t care. Dad asked if I minded eating in and watching a DVD. Not at all. We walked out and got falafel and schwarma to eat at “home.” It’s been a good relaxing night–and great for the blog too. No one really watched the DVD. Susan went to sleep at 9pm, after dinner. Dad snoozed as the movie started and I was writing, but it was fine. We needed a t good non-religious night.




And, yes, there are many more stories to tell. It’s just a question of finding the time to tell them.






Grateful for
: time.






Drop me a line.

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My nephew’s wedding (Part III)

The end of the wedding story, finally.




The appetizers were placed precisely as the first guests arrived. I noticed immediately a difference between the Ashkenazi and the Yemeni women–the Ashkenazi women wear wigs (sheitals) to cover their hair. Almost all of the Yemeni women wore turbans (small ones) or head scarves.




Why head scarves? Orthodox Judaism requires that married women cover their hair. It is acceptable to cover one’s hair either with a scarf, hat or wig.




Since I’m not married, so I don’t have to bother. I’m still trying to attract a man so I get to show off my hair. Susan didn’t cover her hair either–no one cared.




The front of the hall with the appetizers was divided with the partitions. All the good (fried) food was on the men’s side–and so were the plates and flatware. The women did not hesitate to go to the men’s side and load up their plates with kifte and other fried yummies.




By 7:30pm, Dad and Yehuda (my nephew, the groom) had not returned. My brother, B2, was getting a little frantic. My sister-in-law, Tikvah, was occupied guarding Dad’s rental car because it was parked in a forbidden zone. The parking attendant insisted they would have to tow it.




At 7:40, the groom and his grandfather (Dad) finally showed up. Where were they? I found out from Dad while the men were off praying. Oddly, the Ashkenazi and the Yemin men did not pray together.




Yehuda needed coffee. They found a little cafĂ© behind a gas station. The staff figured out, or Yehuda told them, that they were serving a groom. They brought him some cake and ice cream and stuck a sparkler in it. Yehuda wanted to order a pizza and that’s where Dad drew the line. He said, “We have to GO.” And dragged him back to the hall.




And we had a bridegroom.




The ceremony itself was unintelligible–all in Hebrew–even though some of it was miced. A videographer was camped directly in front of the couple making it impossible to see anything. Dad did get a few good pictures, though. This part of the event was the only time men and women were mixed together –all straining to catch a glimpse of the couple under the hupa.




I heard the glass break–the groom steps on a glass as part of the ceremony–but there were still seven blessings to go.




The ceremony wrapped up in about thirty minutes and we headed back to the hall.




The dancing commenced. There was food on the tables but few people were sitting.




The bride was the center of most of the circle dances. She would dance with a friend, who would fling her rather violently about, then a circle would form around them and the women would dance holding hands. It got hot and sweaty quickly.




The bride smiled for the cameras and her friends but she also looked like she was about to pass out a few times. They would sit her down in a chair so she could catch her breath and someone would bring her water. She probably did not get to eat. Later, I realized she was wearing a corset under her dress. Yikes.




After the first round of dancing, more food was brought out and Susan and I took a moment to sit and eat. A couple of nieces at a time joined us but they just took a few bites of food and a few sips of soda before they went back to dancing.




There was a goodly amount of food. And bottles of soda and water on the tables. Actually, the bottles, plastic, of drinks on the table is how we have been served drinks in all of the Orthodox households we’ve visited. Some of the food included “salads”: hummus, roasted eggplant, cucumber and tomato. There was also bread. Later, there was a chicken, beef or chicken main course and dessert. All dishes were kept full.




I felt bad for Dad, all alone on the men’s side. I doubt B2 had much time for him. And everyone was speaking Hebrew. Dad doesn’t know a word. He’s a very smart man, but he does not have a facility for languages. He’s tried and tried for years to learn several different foreign languages and he’s never been successful.




I stood on the edge of the dances and observed. I didn’t know the footwork, but that wasn’t really a problem. The Ashkenazi women were doing a modified version of the grapevine step, which is what you use to dance to the hora. The hora is a Jewish wedding dance–and it was pretty much what the women (and men) were dancing. However, I never heard “Hava Nagila” played, which is the only song at a Reform Jewish wedding to which a circle dance is done (at least in my experience).




After I had a bite to eat, I ventured back to the dance floor. I was watching the dancing (again) and a young woman who I’d met earlier that day at Tikvah’s shop (she works there) took my hand and insisted I dance. She would find me when ever I wasn’t dancing and include me. What a sweet thing.




My nieces did a line dance just for the bride–cute and odd. The whole group did a line dance later on and I joined in. I impressed the oldest niece with my ability to pick up the steps.




I was able to fake the steps for some of the circle dances, but the Yemeni women were doing footwork that was rather complicated. It reminded me of the circle dances I saw at the Moroccan restaurant I went to for New Year’s Eve. The other Ashkenazi women were also studying the footwork for the Yemeni dance and most didn’t join in. The Yemeni women did not offer to teach, nor did most Ashkenazi women ask to learn. They could have, since they had the common language of Hebrew. But most of the Yemenis did not speak English so I had a hard time communicating with them. Attempts were made, by them, but mostly all we could do was smile and nod. Ah well.




Actually, this is also an issue with the bride. She does not speak English (or only a few words–she seems to understand a little). So, when I’ve been asked, “What is she like?” it’s hard to answer. Still, I have a good impression of her. She is a good sport. She understands her role in all of the events surrounding the wedding. She is fashionable. She has a great laugh and a lovely smile. She is beautiful. I don’t know that we would have the deepest conversations even if she spoke English, but I think we would get along just fine.




[Jump to the present: last night. Susan and I drove Yehuda and Avital (the new wife), home after a party. (Dad stayed home; we all stayed home tonight. Did I mention that there have been dinner parties every night this week in honor of the new couple?) As soon as we got away from the house, Avital pulled of her sheital (wig) that she’s been wearing since the day after the wedding. She revealed a full head of long, gorgeous deep brown hair. She said, in Hebrew, that it was itchy. I was shocked. I have never seen a religious woman do something like that. I’ve known Tikvah (my sister-in-law) for over 20 years and I have NEVER seen her without her head covered. Not once. I was delighted. When I dorpped them off, Avital actually walked from the car to their building without the sheital on. You have no idea how unconventional it was. I think this is a good match because Yehuda is not down with all the crazy rules.]




Back to the wedding….




The dance area abutted the partitions, but there was no mixed dancing at all. Avital, the bride, did get to offically cross the barrier at least once. However, the women would peek through the cracks in the “wall” to see what the men were up to. Sometimes, women would stand on chairs and look over the partitions. I did this later in the evening and Tikvah joined me, briefly. I caught Yehuda’s eye and he waved at me. You should have seen the way the men were dancing–just as vigorously as the women. They were also moving rather sensuously and holding hands. Too sexy for me, I tell ya.




Other notable dance moves–the groom tossed on a blanket and hoisted into the air atop a piece of plywood. The bride was also held aloft on a piece of plywood and she tossed little bags of candy to the crowd. I was too busy taking her picture so I wasn’t able to catch any candy.




Speaking of pictures, I have tons but can’t upload them to blogger from Israel. My flicker account is all full for the month too. I’ll get the rest up when I get home, but you can take a look at a few here in the meantime.




Everything wrapped up–dancing and food–by about midnight. The buses–did I mention the buses?–were gone by then. Each side of the family rented a bus to bring their friends and neighbors to the wedding hall. Many people drove themselves, all of the family did, but since many folks don’t have cars, the buses are a standard practice. The expected attendance was 400 people; 200 from each side–at least that many people were there. The location of the hall, just outside of Tel Aviv was a compromise–about halfway between the bride’s and groom’s home towns (hers is Haifa, his is, as you know, Jerusalem). The couple is living in Jerusalem, at least for the time being, just a couple of miles from my family.




After the guests left, some family remained. We sat on the men’s side, at separate tables, while the men sang and prayed. When they finally finished, more offical pictures were taken.




The bride and groom went back to their new apartment in a taxi.




Cars were loaded with presents and food.




Fighting over the checks and cash commenced.




Around 2am, I got in a car with Dad, Susan and my two youngest nieces to drive back to Jerusalem. We got lost on the way back, missing the turnoff to Jerusalem, passing Tel Aviv. We finally found our way back home and dropped the girls off after 3am. The rest of the family was still not home! We got back and fell into bed.




And the parties began….more later!






Grateful for
: the end of this damn story.







Drop me a line.

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My nephew’s wedding (part II)

Poland meets Yemen




It’s about 6:45pm on the day of the wedding. The “Barab” family were at the hall and the first guests were yet to arrive. Dad took Yehuda on a walk and was to return by 7:10pm. I hung around the hall, took a few pictures and checked out the scene.




At an Orthodox wedding, the men and women do not sit together , dine together or dance together. The hall was divided by 8-foot partitions. They created a path that skirted the men’s seating area and where the band was located. The partitions took a right turn and marked off the women’s seating area–which was smaller than the men’s even though the number of female guests was to be about equal to the men.




One wrinkle in this Orthodox wedding was that it was a compromise or a blending of two Jewish traditions. My brother and his community (and all of my family and most American Jews–but not all) are “Ashkenazi” as opposed to “Sephardic.” The bride’s family is Sephardic. Except not really. Really, they are from Yemen–her parents are the first Israeli generation. The Yemeni Jewish community is very old and their traditions are closer to biblical, some say, than the ways of the Ashkenazi. The Ashkenazi are generally people who came from Eastern Europe. They have certain customs, which are independent of how observant one is. For example, traditionally, Ashkenazi’s don’t name their children “in honor” of living relatives, but only “in memory” of dead ones. The Sephardi name their children “in honor.” Some Hebrew pronunciations are different. And the Yemeni have their own customs–some of which are similar to Sephardic customs.




The differences between the Yemeni and the Ashkenazi really come to light in an Orthodox setting. Most of the Yemeni customs were accepted without too much trouble by my brother. A few things he insisted on. Most things they agreed on–like the separate seating and the videographer. My brother insisted on having the hupa (the canopy under which the wedding ceremony is performed) outdoors. This is a matter of no importance to the Yemenis (and the Sephardi, probably), but the Ashkenazi must have the ceremony outdoors, rain, shine, sleet or snow.




Here’s an interesting difference that turning into a big problem–the wedding presents. The Yemeni’s dropped off checks and cash in envelopes made available at the door. Ashkenazis gave gifts–but there is no such thing as a wedding registry. This was a bit of a problem because at the end of the wedding my sister-in-law, Tikvah, wanted to take the checks and cash home to the kids. The other mother-in-law wanted to take it with her back to Haifa. They were at loggerheads and stayed at the hall until 3am counting the take. (Actually, my two oldest nieces did the counting. Tikvah sat by the front door to the hall and waited.) I said, inappropriately, to Dad and Susan that they had a Mexican stand-off. Hey, at least I got a laugh. It was resolved, but no one seems to like the bride’s mother.




Off to take a walk now. More later.






Grateful for
: not caring about the details.






Drop me a line.

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Where have I been?

So sorry for leaving you in suspense.




I have not been lazy, taking long walks, trying to get lost and watching Turner Classic Movies on the digital cable. Ok, I have, but I also did not have access to my computer all day yesterday–it was locked in Dad and Susan’s place. (My own fault–it was mostly due to grumpiness–full story later. And Susan brought her laptop but it’s not working so I did say they could use my machine.)




I got it back last night, but it was nearly 1am when we arrived home and I had to go straight to sleep. I woke up around 10am and got ready. At 10:45am Dad asked to borrow the computer to check his email. He was so slow that I decided to go get coffee and post when I got back. I returned at 11:15am and Susan was on the computer. I asked to use it as soon as she was finished. I’d mentioned to Dad before that I needed to use the computer when he was done. But Susan stayed on until right before we had to get in the car to drive to Tel Aviv for lunch with some old friends of theirs. I should have skipped the Tel Aviv trip.




But, really, what part of, “I need to use the computer?” do they not understand? It’s not like I carried the damn thing here for my health. I need to write! Don’t they understand? Maybe not, since they don’t know about the blog. Should I tell them? Sigh.




We just got back from Tel Aviv and I have exactly 35 minutes before we have to leave for the next event. And I’m driving. Hooray.




I’m writing madly while here, but the part two of the wedding story may not make it up today. It’s outlined in longhand (I haven’t been completely lazy!), but the extra step of typing what I’ve written (and adding more details) makes things that much slower.




I know you will forgive me, but it’s frustrating.






Grateful for
: driving (so much more efficient when I do it).



Drop me a line.

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